With Patek Philippe and Rolex looking to jointly cede their launch calendar for the first half of 2020 because of this Covid catastrophe that unfolded at the start of the calendar year, also Vacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet focusing on collections out their ancestral and Royal Oak staples, there’s an interesting arms race heating up at the highest echelons of luxury watchmakers that are looking to close the gap with ambitious and youthful new luxury-sport crossovers of their own. Combining the fray this summer is Breguet classique hora mundi ref 5727, which has updated a trio of valuable metal references from the sporty and modern Marine line with solid-gold incorporated bracelets.
Since the Swatch Group’s premiere prestige brand, Breguet Replica watches already had a bracelet for the Marine (read Ariel’s hands-on beliefs of the grey-dialed titanium variant right here), and three of these references were available cased in white or pink stone, but they were also only available on leather or rubber straps. It is a good move for Breguet to not only remain relevant in the dialog, but to continue to push the envelope with valuable metal offerings of its own that can compete directly with the type of integrated bracelet mastery we are used to seeing out of categorical mainstays like the Royal Oak.
Just as Breguet did with the titanium reference from 2018, the ending on the new bracelet is outstanding — with slightly chamfered & polished outer borders and a stunning alternating satin-brushed and glistening surface on the top of each screwed link. The final result is a sumptuous, mostly-brushed look that just calls attention to itself at certain viewing angles. There are three options currently available on the impressively finished three-link gold necklace: ref. 5517BB/Y2/BZ0, that’s the”standard” 40mm three-hand variant exhibiting a blue engine-turned wave motif dial, and whose instance is rendered in white gold and fitted into the new bracelet. This three-hander can be available in rose gold, on a rose gold necklace, which is ref. 5517BR/12/RZ0. Things get a bit more complex with the upsized 42mm blue Marine Chronograph ref. 5527BB/Y2/BW0 (which is also available in a rose gold ref. 5527BR/12/RW0), and then max out on peak of the range with all the 40mm Marine Alarme Musicale — a high-complication accessible both white (ref. 5547BR/12/RZ0).